Mustang Stage 1 - I6 Rebuild Project

[}{y|3ri|)]

Ok so its Sat, and like any red blooded American, I am in my garage working on my Mustang. So im taking a break cause its like 107 outside right now and i figured i would share with you guys my status thus far:

Original Problem: Exhaust Leak from old Manifold Gasket.
Solution: Remove Manifold and replace gasket
Additional Problem: Three Manifold bolts broke off during removal


Solution to Additional Problem: PBBlast bolts, let sit, try to remove with Vice.
Additional Additional Problem: Vice grip is just stripping Threads because cant get a good angle/tight enough on bolts:
Solution to the Additional Additional Problem: Remove Head and get a better angle/grip.

Its so true that one problem leads to another. Now im a strong do-it-yourselfer and i have awsome friends, so i jumped into the project today bascially taking apart my engine. ;)

Windows would not compress this image, these are the parts i bought today for the job, I still need a Head Gasket and new spark plugs:
http://www.almostperfection.com/images/Mustang/Stage1/Mustang%20Stage%201%20020.jpg



So Here is what i started with:
http://www.almostperfection.com/images/Mustang/Stage1/step1.jpg

Took off Valve Cover:
http://www.almostperfection.com/images/Mustang/Stage1/headon.jpg

Starter, Manifold, Valve Cover:
http://www.almostperfection.com/images/Mustang/Stage1/valve%20cap.jpg

Removed Carb:
http://www.almostperfection.com/images/Mustang/Stage1/carb.jpg

Took off Ignition Cables:
http://www.almostperfection.com/images/Mustang/Stage1/discap.jpg

Removed Head:
http://www.almostperfection.com/images/Mustang/Stage1/head1.jpg

See Stuck Bolts in Head:
http://www.almostperfection.com/images/Mustang/Stage1/headscrewed.jpg

Removed Head Gasket:
http://www.almostperfection.com/images/Mustang/Stage1/headgasket.jpg

Bare Block:
http://www.almostperfection.com/images/Mustang/Stage1/block.jpg


Once I got the Head off I noticed a problem in the combustion chamber, note the uneven coloration:

http://www.almostperfection.com/images/Mustang/Stage1/head2.jpg




Since I have the engine apart I'm just going to go ahead and replace spark plugs, head gasket, valve cover gasket, and manifold gasket (which is all i planned to do in the first place, but hey if you can take sh|@ apart right? ;) ). I am worried about the oil discoloration in the combustion chamber though. The only thing i can think of is that the oil is leaking out the back of the engine block and not gettin to the front combustion chambers, After i get it all put back together i will do a wet and dry combustion test on it.

[}{y|3ri|)]

Kobalt tools are ****, the twist off drill bit broke off inside the ****ing drilled out bolt, the last one i had to remove. So im just going to take the head to a machine shop and pay the 20 bucks to get the bolt/bit bored and, and re taped.

I've ordered my gaskets and will pickup some spark plugs tomorrow.

I'll take this opertunity to clean the engine.

Not bad for a days work. I plan to have the car back running next sat.

[LA_MERC_th33_r00k]

Rear oiling is a common occurance in most American cars due to the tilt of the motor and gravity fed oil return. I would assume that this is the case since the front are not that bad. This is also why re-directing oil disbursement in 350 cid engines is popular.

Engines are made to pump oil from pick up tube to the top of the motor first.. Then Drip down due to gravity to return to the pan. Secondary channels oil the main bearings and a couple other spots. What needs the best lubrication though. The mains and internals, not the top end. Since you are tearing down so far, why not hone and re-ring if nothing else. Just a question. The machine shop already has the block. It would be quick and they would prolly due the bottom end for $400 - $500.

[LA_MERC_YellowDog]

Rook, I dont think the Machine shop has the bottom end, only the head, the bolt he is working on was one of the rusted manifold bolts, not a head bolt in the block, so he hasent pulled the engine out of the car yet.

However, It would be neat to do the bottom end if he can aford it, as this would make for a great and very reliable 6 Cly. for a long time to come.... Just so long as you dont get in a hurry with the car.

[}{y|3ri|)]

Awsome suggestion, but the I6 resto is just step one in a long list of things i plan to upgrade on my mustang, one thing being to swap out the I6 for a 5.0 V8 T5. So all im really doing right now is replacing gaskets and checking seals and fixing the manifold exhaust leak. So the idea is to spend as little as possible gettin the I6 in shape just so it last another year so i can drop that V8 in.

[LA_MERC_sLingbLade]

yummmm...v-8...Looking good J. - When you get done with the stang you will have to come help me with my little project..77 scout II, I will even buy the beer! Keep up the good work d00d.

[}{y|3ri|)]

So what would you suggest i clean the head and valve cover with, i was just going to do it with hot water and soap and a medium tough bristle brush. I dont want to use too strong of a degreaser just because i dont want the paint to get removed.

[LA_MERC_th33_r00k]

They make a citrus degreaser that is pretty safe on most things. Snap-On may carry it and some auto parts stores. I will look to see if I can find the name. You can also use Simple Green degreaser. Alot of parts washers are going to S.G. to wash their parts. It is also fairly safe. Buy the concentrate, which I know Sherwin-Williams carries, and dilute it to the strength you need.

[LA_MERC_Nutria]

Use something called Purple Power. You will have to repaint the parts you do use it on though, but you won't have to worry about grease. I work in the auto parts business so I know what you are going through brother. It will pay off... especially being the ford straight 6... they are pretty much bullet proof.

[}{y|3ri|)]

Use something called Purple Power. You will have to repaint the parts you do use it on though, but you won't have to worry about grease. I work in the auto parts business so I know what you are going through brother. It will pay off... especially being the ford straight 6... they are pretty much bullet proof.

OMG i know right? This thing is the original engine, it has only had to have the manifold welded once... thats all the problems this engine has had in the last 50 years... and it has over 300,000 miles on the car... can you say that about any cars built now adays???

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